December has arrived, along with record breaking amounts of snow, turning Reykjavik into a winter wonderland. I think Reykjavik is a beautiful city all year long, but Christmas time, that is when this little city really shines. To all my fellow Christmas lovers out there take note, a trip to Reykjavik in December, it is the best place to be to get into the holiday spirit!
This is my third winter in Iceland, and my second Christmas I will be celebrating here, and even though I am sad to not be home with my family this year I have lots to look forward to this Christmas.
Christmas in Iceland, it is completely different than what I am use to in America but I love experiencing all the Icelandic traditions. With Christmas just a little over two weeks away lets get more into the Christmas spirit and talk about a few of my favorite Icelandic Christmas traditions!
Icelandic Yule Lads
The Icelandic Yule Lads, known as “Jólasveinar”, begin making their appearance 13 days before Christmas with a new Yule Lad arriving each night leaving small gifts for the children. 13 days of gifts as well as more Christmas gifts on Christmas Eve, sounds like a great idea to me!
The Yule Lads originated from Icelandic folklore and were portrayed as mischievous trolls that would steal food and livestock, as well as harass and scare the children. They are the 13 sons of a terrifying ogress named Grýla who is said to live in the Icelandic mountains and comes down at Christmas time to capture naughty children, her favorite snack.
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The early stories of the Yule Lads and Grýla were used to scare children into behaving. However in 1746 a public decree was issued prohibiting parents from using these stories to frighten their children into behaving. They have since left their life of petty crime and harassing behind, but are still known to pull a prank or two:)
Today the Yule Lads enjoy bringing joy to the children instead of scaring them. Starting 13 days before Christmas Eve one of the Yule Lads will visit the children each night and leave a gift in a shoe the children put in the window. The good children receive small gifts such as small toys, books or a piece of fruit, and the naughty children, well they get a potato in their shoe.
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Giljagaur “Gully Imp”, a Yule Lad who likes to steal milk.
Walking around Reykjavik you will see different Yule Lads projected onto buildings, appearing and reappearing as if they are hopping around town hiding out. The bookstores are filled with different Christmas books all about the Yule Lads and their mischievous ways. I think I would have found the Yule Lads quite scary if I was a child, I still think the idea of them is a bit creepy! Seeing the whole city participate in the Yule Lad’s tradition has been so fun, even if I am an adult and don’t get presents in my shoe.
Laufabrauð
Laufabrauð is a dish that is traditionaly ate during Christmas time and I absolutely love it! As soon as I see Laufabrauð in the stores around the end of November I start asking H’s mom when we are going to make a batch. I can’t get enough of this tasty Christmas time treat!
Laufabrauð originates from Northern Iceland and is a very thin flat bread that is decorated with leaf-like, geometric patterns that you make by hand or with a brass roller. Once you have cut out your design you then fry the Laufabrauð briefly in hot fat or oil.
It took me a few tries to get the hang of making the patterns in the dough but I think I finally mastered the art of making Laufabrauð.
Okay not really, I still mess up 9 out of 10 of my Laufabrauð, you can always tell which ones I made with the terrible pattern. But they still taste good!
Last year we made a batch of Laufabrauð to take back to the states with us for my family to try. I don’t think they were as much of a fan as me, but that was fine by me, more for me to enjoy! My favorite way to eat Laufabrauð, with some Hangikjöt (smoked lamb) basically the only time I will eat lamb. A little slice on top of Laufabrauð, so good!
Þorláksmessa - December 23rd
This day traditionally marked the last day of the Christmas fast and on this day no meat was to be eaten. To make up for the meatless meal they instead decided that fermented skate (a type of fish) would become the dish of the day. This dish has a strong smell of ammonia, I mean strong, and is still very popular today. Just walking past the stuff in the grocery store was enough for me to never want to try it and thankfully the Viking and his family don’t participate in this tradition.
The decorating of the Christmas tree is often done on the 23rd as well. Instead of digging into the fermented skate we opt to participate in this tradition and decorate our tree.
After everyone has enjoyed their meal of fermented skate and decorated their trees many flock downtown to finish up some last minute shopping, meet up with friends, or just wander the streets and see what is going on.
Never have I seen so many people walking around downtown Reykjavik! My first Christmas in Iceland I didn’t really understand why it was such a big deal to go out walking in the cold after a dinner with your family. Once I experienced it though I totally got it, and now I am looking forward to it this year!
This stroll downtown is full of chatting with friends you bump into (because umm hello Iceland is super small and you can’t go anywhere without seeing someone you know!) stopping into a cozy cafe for a drink and being out and about with others who are in a fun holiday mood. It really gets you excited for the Christmas festivities to come.
Christmas Eve - December 24th
This is the main day of Christmas in Iceland with celebrations typically starting around 6pm. Starting the celebrations at 6pm is said to have come from an old Icelandic tradition where a new day started at 6pm and not midnight. At 6pm the Christmas celebrations usually start off with a delicious Christmas meal with your close family members.
The first Christmas the Viking and I were in the same country to celebrate together! Only took three years:)
After Christmas dinner gifts are exchanged with a new book being a popular present. Truly, nearly everyone in Iceland gets a new book on Christmas. I thought this was so neat, how cozy is that ending your Christmas fun by curling up in bed with your new book?!
Christmas Day - December 25th
This day is all about relaxing and enjoying quality family time. Many families will meet with their extend family for a early dinner or coffee and cakes, but for the most part the day is spent at home relaxing, eating leftovers and spending time with your loved ones.
This was a completely different experience from what I am use to on the 25th, I mean what do you mean we don’t wake up and Santa has brought the presents?! I don’t know if it is something I can get used to, H and I will be having our Christmas celebration on Christmas morning, I have to have a piece of home this year. I will say it was very relaxing having the whole day just to lounge around and eat leftovers.
Second Christmas
Also known as Boxing Day, the 26th is yet another day for relaxing and eating more tasty food. I find this so nice compared to what I am use to in America, it is always so exhausting having to go back to work the day after Christmas so it is great having these extra days to just lounge around and try and come out of my food coma!
My favorite thing to do over this long Christmas holiday, take lots of winter walks. Not only do we have to work off all the food we are eating but Reykjavik is truly a winter wonderland this time of year.
I hope you enjoyed learning all about Christmas in Iceland! There are so many wonderful things to do in Iceland this time of the year, read more about fun Christmas time events over at Unlocking Kiki!
And for a little Christmas throwback, here is the Viking and I’s Christmas card from two years ago.
It is in our 24 Days of Togetherness bucket to make a new one this year, I can only imagine what idea the Viking will have for this years Christmas card :)
Question of the Day?
What Christmas traditions does your country/family have? What tradition are you most looking forward to this year?
